The man's chemise or undershirt was worn next to the skin to keep the body oils off his finer garments. It was made of white linen, cotton or silk and was easily washed. The shirt usually reached to the knees. The neckline which in the first part of the century was squared began to creep up toward the throat and eventually a standing collar was added. These collars were sometimes elaborately embroidered and encrusted with jewels. Even the cuffs were embroidered.

We recommend a simple linen chemise which ties at the throat and wrists.

During the first part of the 16th Century, men's pants were beginning to change from the long tight look to trunks and hose.The breeches or trunks continued to fit snugly but the stockings or hose could be attached to the legs above the knee with lacings. Trunk hose were held up by means of lacings which were attached to the bottom of the doublet. The waistband was interlined with two layers of canvas to keep the laces from tearing the fabric. However, for men who were active this could prove inconvenient if one was in a hurry. So a new invention appeared — the martingale.

Martingale

The martingale was simply a leather belt which had two leather straps in front which passed between the legs and attached in the center back. Holes for the lacings were punched in the belt. A lacing in the front allowed the martingale and breeches to be removed in one swift action. (Essential if the local water didn't agree with you.)

Codpiece

The codpiece was flap of material which served to cover the gap in the front of the breech hose. The "cod" started out as a simple bag secured by buttons or lacings. However, the German mercenaries, known as the Landsknecht, famous for their flamboyant attire, began to exaggerate the cod. Some cods were said to be able to hold an orange and one even claimed that a page had stuffed roast partridge in his. For our purposes, however, we will stick to the conservative flap covering.

(Jubón) from the Arabic yabba or waistcoat (Chupa)

The doublet was a vest-like garment which came in a variety of styles. In some cases the hose could be laced to the bottom of the garment but for our purposes, we use an alternative method (See Martingale).

The doublet is well-fitted, usually padded, buttoned or laced down the front. The doublet that Hermann is wearing (above and right) has the parti-color sleeves of the German Landsknecht. Soldiers dressed in the "bravado style" in order to show tht they were not only extraodinarily brave but that they had the means to be ransomed rather than killed when captured.

As in all trades, standards of fit and finish were high. Doublet makers made a special branch of the tailoring trade. An aspiring doublet maker had to spend two years as an apprenticeship and two as a workman before he could take his exams. He would spend two or three days answering questions and doing demonstrations before he was granted guild membership.

Doublets along with their sleeves came in a wonderful variety of styles. For women like Diana at the left, posing as men, we recommend the padded front to help conceal the bust. Parti-colors were popular. Sleeves can be full, narrow, slashed, puffed. No two pairs need look alike.

Please try to stay away from the "uniform look."

Materials were silks, wools, and linens. Brocades were cut lengthwise of the fabric with the design right side up. Expensive fabrics required three linings, one of linen the same color as the brocade, one of coarse canvas, and a third of white linen. Cotton was used for padding, not wool or horsehair. The client who preferred fewer layers of linen and less padding was to be humored. Doublets of minor silks received only two linings, the canvas and one linen in the body and the white linen and the fabric colored one in the sleeves.

Fustian doublets were made for the ready to wear trade. There rules for the reinforcement of the canvas in the areas where eyelets were to be made. Lighter weight doublets made of linen were available for warm weather.

Second hand garments had to be hung at the shop entrance for three days in case they were stolen. The tailor had to declare how he had obtained them and wait eight days before he could remake them for a new customer.

The knee-length jerkin was worn over the doublet, and at times, even armor. A jerkin had a snug-fitting top with sleeves and a gored skirt. The jerkin skirt is lined with a heavy linen canvas which helps to set the pleats. The pleats are held in place with two strong, narrow tapes, sewed horizontally at 1/3 and 2/3 the length of the skirt on the inside. The most popular style of sleeve for the jerkin was a full, puffed sleeve, narrowing to fit the forearm. Jerkins were made of fine materials such as brocades, silks, velvets, and wool.

Johnny Shaffer is wearing his jerkin without a doublet in this photo.