The gowns of this period had a tightly fitted, low-cut bodice with a full-skirt pleated and attached at the waist. Fabrics ranged from plain woven linens, cottons or wools for the working classes to gorgeous silk brocades, velvets, damasks, and satins for the well-dressed wealthy woman. Skirts were so long that sometimes they had to carried by an aide so as not to drag on the ground while walking outside. For modern camps, cotton or linen skirts can be worn, shortened to 3" -6" off the ground, so as not to cause a hazard around the fire. The gown was belted or tied with a sash at the waist.

Skirts

A great variety of skirts can be found in that period. Sometimes they were worn over the gown such as a at the right. They could be made in panels, decorated with bands of velvet, embroidered, tucked, hooped, and bejeweled.

CHEMISE (Camisa)

A chemise was worn under the gown to protect finer fabric from getting soiled by body oils. It was made of linen or East India cotton so that it could be washed. The chemise was often embellished with black or red needlework, and in the case of wealthy classes gold and silver embroidery thread was used. The chemise had a square or round neckline in the early part of the century with free flowing sleeves. About 1520 a high-neckled chemise with gathered and puffed sleeves started to appear. The chemise could be tied at either the back or the front of the neck with agleted laces. Sleeve cuffs were sometimes decorated with cording and embroidered bands.

DRAWERS (Zaragüelles)

Underpants appeared in Spain much earlier than in other parts of Europe probably due to the Moorish influence. Most were made of linen or cotton. The huge pants were gathered about the waist with a draw string and reached to just below the knees, where they were again gathered in with a drawstring. Drawers and stockings could be joined with laces.

UNDERSKIRTS (Faldrillas)

Skirts were often layered one over another. Silk skirts were lined with linen or wool for warmth. The most common lining of the period was red buckram. These skirts were often trimmed with ribbons and embroidery so that a lady could lift the overskirt to show off a fine underskirt.

There is also mention of a "chemise skirt" which was probably made of a plain fabric such as linen.

Mantos and Capotes - (Right) Jackie Shaffer is wearing a cloak which is styled like a Moorish burnoose. It was held together at the neck with a beautiful brooch. It was pleated around a rather low cut neckline. There was usually only one arm slit. Many cloaks were highly decorated with gold and pearls. Girls were warned, "Going out of doors, the damsel should be careful not to expose her breasts and her throat, or to walk revealing herself at every step with the manto... At most, uncovering one eye so that she may see the road where she is going." Although mantos were worn over the head, a hood, worn as a separate piece was more convenient.

Ropas and Zamarros - Coats made of sheep fells were widley used. Queen Isabel loved her coat of pellico de canero so much that she said she did not take it off her body but kept it with her always as her best sheild against winter, like her beloved husband Ferninando. The Guadalupe Monastry was famous for its well dressed sheep fells covered with satin, damask or velvet. Coats were also made of wool, brocades, damask, and satin. They were elaborately trimmed with velvet, cord, furs and precious jewells. Coats usually had separate sleeves.

Monjil - a cloak with sleeves

Bernia - It is thought to have originated in Ireland (Hibernia) and is a cape made of shaggy wool. It was short and sumptuous and was designed to leave one arm free which suggests that it fastened at the shoulder with a broach.

Tabards - a short, flowing garment, open at the sides, and with a head opening with a fairly low neckline.

Capuz - A coat with sleeves fitted close to the neck and fastened with buttons down the top part of the front. The front was sewn shut. Wool, some damask. It was going out of style by our period.